Choosing the right shampoo
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When we think about the reasons to use shampoo, the following answers may come to our mind:
Some products used in the afro hair tend to leave build ups that attract dust particles, dirt and pollution in general from the atmosphere. That's why it's important to wash the hair carefully with shampoo to cleanse it and give it a rest from the products. A good shampoo must cleanse the scalp and the hair without totally removing the natural oils and moisture. In addition, after shampooing the hair should be relatively detangled and prepared for the conditioner. |  |
Characteristics of shampoo
There are two types of shampoo: with and without soap.
Shampoos with soap are not used by stylist anymore.
They are alkaline and along with water
they make a foam and leave build ups in the hair. As a
consequence, the hair is dull, dry, very tangled and has a
coarse felling to it. On hair treated with chemicals, the use
of shampoos with soap will make it weak and fragile.
A rinse with citric acid (like lemon juice) or acetic acid (like vinegar) and water will help remove build ups caused by shampoos with soap. Another option would be to use a product that removes the alkaline deposits that have been in the hair. This way, the hair will recover its shine and will look healthier.
As part of the treatment, the hair must be washed only with shampoos free of soap. Sometimes these shampoos may be a bit acidic, but this quality contributes to a better cleansing and removal of build ups.
Cleansing action of shampoos
The detergents contained in the shampoos are made of special
and sometimes long molecules. A side of the molecule is
attracted to oil: it's hidrofobic. The other is
attracted to water: it's hidrofilic. When the water
and the detergent are applied to an oily surface like
hair, the side of the molecule that repels the water adheres
to the oil and it removes it from the surface. This action
also helps in cleansing the hair. The oil and the remains can immediately
be rinsed.
Types of shampoo
The majority of shampoos used for afro hair
contain a neutral pH of 7 or less. A pH balanced shampoo
will have a positive effect in the hair, leaving it
detangled and in the best condition. The softer the water
the better the results. Normally, the shampoo produces a
foam that lasts a couple seconds. In other water
conditions, the shampoo will not produce
enough foam (although it has been verified that the
shampoo does not need to produce excessive foam to work
appropriately). A good quality shampoo will require the use of small
amounts to clean the hair and scalp appropietly.
The active ingredients contained in soap shampoos are “triethanolamine lauryl sulphate” and “sodium lauryl sulphate”, which act as detergents. The shampoo can contain a variety of additives to correct several conditions of the scalp and hair. Here are some examples of shampoos that we can normally find in the stores:
- Neutralizing shampoo: This additive is found in shampoos that are used after applying relaxers. Avoid the use of this shampoo on permed hair.
- Damaged /Dry hair shampoo: This shampoo contains coconut, jojoba and almond oils as well as minerals, hidrolic proteins and amino acids. It is used on damaged, dry or fragile hair, especially for hair that has been treated with chemicals. You can also use it on natural hair to add moisture. It shouldn't be used if your are planning to perm your hair.
- Conditioning detangling shampoo(2 in 1): This shampoo acts like conditioning detergent. It's used on extremely porous hair or damaged hair and it is also recommended for natural hair. Same as above, avoid using this shampoo before a perm.
- Moisturizing shampoo: It contains hidrolic proteins, amino acids as well as coconut, jojoba and almond oils. This shampoo is also good for damaged and dry hair, especially if used before applying a treatment, due to it's detangling properties.
- Dandruff shampoo: This shampoo contains "zinc pyrithione", it's meant to be used on scalps that are afected by dandruff. Avoid the use of this shampoo if you are planning to perm or relax your hair, as it may irritate the scalp. It can also cause severe dryness in afro hair and scalp. For extreme dandruff cases, there is a shampoo that contains “selenium sulphide”, but it should used with a medical prescription only. A prolonged use of this type of shampoos can produce dermatitis, as well as make your hair very dry and weak.
Shampoo application
The process shampoo application is effective when you combine
a good shampoo with massage techniques. Massage the scalp when applying
shampoo in order to remove the grease, dirt and build ups in a thorough
way. We recommended the following steps when shampooing:
- Wet the hair carefully. Make sure that the water is not hot, since this can hurt the scalp. Preferably use cool water, not too warm nor too cold.
- Pour a reasonable amount of shampoo in your hands (according to the length of your hair) and spread it all over your hair and scalp.
- Massage carefully but firmly with your finger tips (not with the nails) to guarantee that it is clean and to avoid hurting your scalp.
- After massaging for one or two minutes, rinse the hair carefully.
- Apply shampoo a second time using the same technique. Two applications should be enough to cleanse the hair and the scalp properly.
- Be careful not to tangle the hair when applying shampoo. This may cause damages to the hair like breakage and split ends.
- Make sure to rinse out all the shampoo. Otherwise it may cause dryness, an itchy scalp and weak hair.
- Once you've rinsed out the shampoo completely, and the hair is clean, don't forget to apply a good conditioner to restore moisture.
© caoba 2007
