The Black Christ of Portobelo

No one knows exactly how or when the Black Christ (El Cristo Negro) arrived in the tiny community of Portobelo in Panama’s Caribbean coast. Some say it was around 1658, but the stories of miracles related to the eight-foot wooden statue of the Black Christ are enough to overwhelm the village with thousands of pilgrims every October 21st.

Some walk the 53 miles from Panama City, others walk 22 miles from Sabanitas, and many even crawl the last mile to worship the "Nazareno", one of the names given to the Black Christ by locals. Many wear purple robes which are offered at midnight on the steps of the church that houses the statue, Iglesia San Felipe. The robes announce that the bearer is responding to a divine command, doing penance for his sins, or simply showing his faith.

Many stories try to explain how the Black Christ statue arrived in this unlikely place. All agree that it was carved in Spain, sent by boat and ended up in Portobelo's coast. The rest is a mistery.

One version holds that the ship carrying the heavy statue in a wooden crate, faced a terrible storm that pulled it back into the harbor. The crew attempted to leave five times, but every time they tried, a sudden and unexpected storm endangered the ship and everyone aboard. On the final attempt, the crew decided to throw out the crated Black Christ to lessen the weight and save their lives.

Some fishermen, amazed by the lack of respect shown by the sailors, carried the Black Christ to their church and gave it a place of honor.

Another myth indicates that the icon of Jesus of Nazareth was to be sent to the island of Taboga, in the Pacific coast, but the statue was incorrectly labeled. Many attempts were made to send the statue to Taboga, but all attempts to remove it from Portobelo failed. The people of Portobelo, who suspected the figure had magical powers, decided that it should remain with them.

The popular name, Black Christ, is attributed to U.S. servicemen shortly after the Second World War. Around 500 men arrived in Portobelo to celebrate the October festival. One witness of this particular day mentions that many of the U.S. visitors were so caught up in the emotional fervor, that they began to shout “viva El Cristo Negro!” The name stuck everywhere except in Portobelo. A more familiar name is simply "The Saint".

A mass gathers at 6 p.m. every October 21st. (Be there before 4 p.m. if you hope to get in the church.) At exactly 8 p.m., 80 strong men carry the statue from the church to begin a four-hour procession around the community. There is a carnival atmosphere.

The bearers take three steps forward, two back, in a similar manner to that of Spanish religious processions. But, unlike those in Spain, this procession has a special Latin American twist: a touche of lively music. The bearers have freshly shaved heads, wear purple robes and are bare feet. It is an honour to be chosen to carry the Black Christ, an honour paid for with sore shoulders and aching muscles the next day.

At exactly midnight, The Saint is returned to the church. One story holds that it is impossible to return the Black Crist before midnight. “It just gets too heavy to move.”

*Fragment of an article published at www.yourpanama.com